Spanish Is Chicken

I've been here since May. In that time, my interest in Thai language has certainly evolved to a level of pining for knowledge, accuracy, dare I say fluency, whereas at first I was only concerned with basic, practical communication. Just because you pine for something, (or someone), does not mean that you will succeed in attaining it. This is how I feel everyday. I feel like I'm on the losing side of unrequited love. Could I possibly want to learn Thai more than my brain is willing to give? Maybe it's just the language itself that alludes me purposefully, as I must have done something that has caused it to be totally turned off by me. Ha ha, right? This whole love metaphor is hysterical, eh guys? Well, it may be hyperbolic, but it is how I feel sometimes. There have been days where I feel like I am doing quite well with learning Thai, and then another day comes along and I realize that I really know nothing. And, I'm studying almost every day. Maybe this is a result of years of laziness. You can ask any lazy person out there. When we actually decide, or by some random force of God act in accordance to some prescribed requirement, to exert the proper amount of effort into anything, we expect immediate and unmitigated results. What any regularly hard working individual will say is that every task takes patience, in labor and understanding.

Thai language is fascinating. It is quite different from English, beginning with the fact that Thai has a completely separate alphabet. The Thai alphabet derives from the Khmer script, which is composed of a writing called Vatteluttu. There are 44 consonants and fifteen vowel letters, which combine to form almost thirty vowel sounds and five "tones". And this is the notable difference between Thai and English, besides the difference in alphabet and linguistic influences: the tones. Now, I realize that we use tones in English. We may say "what?" if we do not understand something that has just been said, or we may say "whaaaat!?" if we are in disbelief of something that has just been said. But this kind of tone differentiation has no real bearing on the meaning of the word itself, unlike Thai language. For example, the word "mah"(transliterated of course from the Thai alphabet to form the closest possible Latin- letter phonetic equivalent) can mean five completely different things, depending on how it is pronounced. It can mean "to come" when it is pronounced with no emphasis, also called the mid tone. The high tone changes the meaning to "horse", the rising to "dog", and two others that I do not know. The word "khao" can mean rice, mountain, white, or he/she/it. I was talking to a Thai friend about how difficult I found the language to be, especially when compared to a language like Spanish. I got cute, and muttered "Spanish ngai", attempting to say "Spanish is easy". She looked at me curiously and asked why I thought that "Spanish is chicken". Ha. There you go. Chicken, or "gai/kai" in Thai, is not even close in meaning to "ngai", or easy, yet there I was, standing proud after declaring the Spanish language to be equal to a delicious leg, or breast, of (let's say fried) chicken.

I have been trying to learn Thai for sometime now, and there are times when I feel like I am making progress. I usually then realize how much I do not know, perhaps after an attempt at speaking Thai becomes a source of uncontrollable laughter. I am lucky to have many patient Thai friends who seem happy enough to help me out. Thai is just a difficult language. English is much easier, believe me.

The Road Lest Travelled

It all started on a train from Bangkok, the first of several legs of travel that would eventually lead us to Laos. We had planned this trip months in advance. This is what foreigner teachers in Thailand do. We teach for 3 and a half months and travel modestly when a good opportunity presents itself, a long weekend perhaps. We get paid an ample salary, in my estimation. It would not stretch too far in the U.S., but the affordability and convenience of Thailand enabled me to put aside a healthy sum of money for holiday travels. I am particularly fortunate because my break in between semesters has lasted over 6 weeks. I start back next Monday, November 2nd.

We arrived at Hualampong Train Station in Bangkok on the evening of October 4 with my old friend Clair McCalla and her friend Sally Wilson, both of whom have also been teaching in the land of smiles. The trip began with a delay. When we arrived we found out that a train en route to Bangkok from Chiang Mai, the same rails we would be following, had suffered an electrical malfunction and would be delayed several hours. We later found out that this accident resulted in multiple deaths, all Thai's in 3rd class. This set back sort of established a tone for our entire vacation, a trip that would involve many legs of hectic travel and unpredictable "twists and turns". We finally boarded the train, and 13 hours later, after a poor night's sleep, arrived in Chiang Mai in northwest Thailand. Laos has two main regions: Northern Laos, the area directly north of Thailand; and East/South Laos, the area that runs vertically east of Thailand. Our destination was N. Laos. Our train train departed from central Thailand(BKK), and, as I have said, arrived in Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. From this point we took a 5 hour bus ride to Chiang Kong, the last town in Thailand before the great Mekong River that divides Thailand and Laos(and also runs through Cambodia). In fact( I think, at least), the region comprised of N. Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia is also referred to as The Greater Mekong area. We spent the night in Chiang Kong and woke up early to get a jump on to our slow boat trip up the Mekong to Luang Prabang, Laos. When we crossed the river and entered Laos, we met a nice Laotian who advised us that the slow boat venture was not only exhausting(1.5 days), but also somewhat dangerous, as the hostels are notorious for a lack of security and a variety of tourists scams. We were persuaded to hire a minibus to drive us to Luang Prabang, and here is where our misadventures on the road really began. The man advised us that while it would be faster to take the minibus to Luang Prabang, it was still going to be a bumpy ride because 90% of the roads had been completed. This, according to our advisor, would leave an insignificant portion of the path pitted. Boy were we deceived. The ride, which took almost 14 hours and only covered a distance of ~100 kilometers, was turbulent, uncomfortable, and strange. The only route available is through the mountains, and the road is maybe 75% completed, at best. This leaves at least a quarter of the road tantamount to mere jagged terrain. There was hardly room for the van to maneuver. I was glad that I decided to not drink a considerable amount of fluids before departing. I don't think I would have been able to suffer gladly had my kidneys been busy during this snailing along of a road trip. Mai ben rai, no worries. We made it into Luang Prabang around midnight and checked into the nearest available guest house. I was expecting Laos to be a mirror image of Thailand, but this was not the case. Laos was colonized by the French(after Thailand relinquished the territory that is now current day Laos to avoid colonial occupation itself), and the French influence is well pronounced. Luang Prabang is the best place to see and experience this peculiar western impact on Asia. There are coffee shops at ever corner and other western-style foods that are difficult, if not impossible, to come by in Thailand. We were able to enjoy these western conveniences as we pleased and were also able to explore the mountain and village life of this extremely rural and primitive country. Though I may be focusing on the negative aspects of our excursion through Laos, I must say that its physical geography is stunning.

We spent a few days in Luang Prabang and then headed south to Vang Vieng a small back packers' haven famous for its drunken tubing and secluded caves. OUR NEXT LEG OF TRAVEL was then, of course, underway.

We took a "VIP" bus from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng. This, as advertised, was supposed to be an air con bus that would have us in Vang Vieng in 5.5 hours. Before we boarded the bus, we were immediately alarmed. It was packed to the brim, there were stools in the aisle for passengers that we would pick up along the way, and one of the conductors was trying his damnedest to figure out a way to load a motorcycle onto the top of the bus. There were sick little kids spread throughout the bus, coughing and crying. Some of the adults, one in particular who chose to sit by us in the back, were coughing up flem(spelling?) of the most unsavory variety. And they handed each passenger a plastic bag before we departed. We didn't know until after the trip what these bags' purpose were, but they are used for the collection of urine and other fluids that I'll avoid mentioning as not to taint the decency and innocence of this blog. Clair and I both got sick within 2 days of this bus trip. It was disgusting, and, to boot, the ride took approximately 8 hours. Whatever, never mind, forget about it. We try at all times to maintain a Thai disposition. Mai ben rai, I guess. These could be my last words one day.

Vang Vieng was very nice. We stayed for 5 days, which I guess is proof of its appeal. Honestly, there is not a whole lot to do, minus the tubing and random outdoor excursions. We rented motorcycles and explored the countryside. A couple of those days were spent doing nothing, just relaxing and enjoying the fact that we had nothing to do. I'm still not sure why we spent 5 days there.

We kayaked down a tributary of the Mekong River to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. This may have been the smoothest leg of travel for the entire trip, and it was via waterway. We arrived in Vientiane, had some dinner, and then hopped on a bus to Bangkok. I think this was the 11th or 12th day since our original departure from Bangkok. It was quite a journey.

I have a new found appreciation for Thailand. I remember seeing the first 7/11 as we entered Thailand and feeling overwhelmingly glad to be home. We stopped at a cheap VIP convenient store/ restaurant for a quick bite. Oh how I was delighted to taste the spice of Thai food again. I don't know how I will ever eat any other food again. Bottom line, I was happy to be back. Laos was great. It really is a beautiful country with some very friendly people, and I was with two lovely young ladies with whom I had the privilege of spending almost 2 weeks with. Laos is a very different place than Thailand with a distinct identity.It has an independent set of values, a complex history, and a different outlook as a result. I look forward to traveling to other SE Asian countries so that I may discover what it is that makes each one of these places unique.

October

Will be out of for most of this month. I just returned from our annual English Camp in Hua Hin. Beautiful beach town, and just in time to beat the busy season. I doubt I will post anything until I get back to Bangkok. I know there are some of you who are committed readers of this blog(hey mom), and I apologize for not posting lately. I have been busy.

I am traveling to Laos for two weeks, and then I will help out with OEG Teach in Thailand October Orientation. Hope all is well.

Sawasdee

Heart Water*

This past weekend I traveled to Surin Province, a small rural village in the Northeast region of Thailand. This area is known for its primitive environment, and the people, who speak a different dialect than the universally spoken "Bangkok" Thai language, are unique in lifestyle and culture. Most ostensibly, the major difference is the rural countryside these people inhabit. Surin is a village community, and the village I visited, one of the larger ones in the province, has a population of 973 people. I was invited by a family who owns and operates a small "Esan"(moniker for NE Thailand) restaurant near my apartment. These people feed me 4-5 nights a week for a very modest price, and I try to help them learn English with mundane chit chat(although I must say it is difficult to have successful small talk between people who do not speak the same language). Nevertheless, they are my friends. When they asked me to go with them to Surin, I jumped at the chance. What could be more rugged or adventurous than to travel with a Thai family to a strange place in the middle of nowhere? Answer: not many things. It was one of those trips that I thought would be good to have in the books, to talk about later on down the road when I'm back home sitting comfortably in my living room talking with family members. In other words, my chief motivation was to secure yet another story to tell. I wanted to be able to say "Yeah, I did that...I hopped in a car on Friday and took the train back on Sunday...I slept in a cottage with 7 people on the floor...I rode water buffaloes across the pond to the rice fields...I ate "Indian style" for 4 straight meals and felt bona fide...etc., etc., etc..." I did in fact do some of these things, but that is not the point. What I missed is something I often miss, as I often get caught up in the selfish thrill of an extemporaneous experience(side note: while I had 3-4 weeks notice of this trip, I tried not to think about it so that I could approach the weekend as a spur of the moment decision). One of the best mottoes in life that I fail to adhere to is to live outside yourself; that is, to consistently think of the thoughts and feelings of others around you so as to achieve a heightened sense of fulfilment and/or gratitude. I am usually so preoccupied with my own convenience and comfort that I miss the essential beauty of the experience: the people. A common theme I have written about in this blog is the kindness and generosity of the Thai people. Now, I once again return to it. The family I met and stayed with for 24 hours in Surin accepted me warmly into their home, and while we were unable to communicate verbally, there was a kindness, a feeling of love even, that I will keep with me for the rest of my life and remember always.

Sometimes I find myself most comfortable in unfamiliar environments, in places where I have never been and will most likely never return. These fleeting experiences have a certain romantic appeal. As I said, this appeal is related to a certain spirit of spontaneity, a lack of adequate planning and a complete absence of expectation. However I build it up in my mind beforehand, or even perceive the experience as it is happening, the memory takes on a life of its own. This may seem like an obscure idea, but, to me, there are three time-related aspects of experience: a) build up/expectation(or lack thereof), b) the actual experience, and c) the memory. Sometimes I cannot fully appreciate something until it has passed and all that remains are fragmented thoughts and feelings that enter my mind at random moments in my life. Although it has only been three days since I walked the dirt roads of Surin, the memory has already taken form and is getting stronger by the minute. I have had some experiences that, at the time, were profoundly distressing. But now, looking back as a different person, I cherish everything that has happened in my life, good and bad. I feel lucky now to be able to continue accumulating new life experiences and even luckier to have found some of the most beautiful people in the world. Streams of heart water overflow in the land of smiles.

* The Thai word for "kindness" translates literally in English as "heart water"

Therapy

What does it take to be a teacher? Knowledge, creativity, charisma, of course. But these three attributes can only get you so far. In my brief and limited experience, I have found that teaching, in some ways, is an ever-running series of encounters that require perserverence on the part of both teacher and pupil. There are some days when I feel like I am constantly faced with a decision of whether to summon the virtues(patience especially) or succumb to the mayhem and throw a chair(or a student) out the window. And I am sure that it must be equally frustrating for the students as well, as I bark orders and speak a languge that most can hardly undersand. It is important for me to remember what it is like to learn a foreign language, especially from a teacher who can only speak that language and not my own. During orientation/training, one of our instructors came in and gave us a lesson in German, not speaking a word of English. This was humbling, but we were yet to teach any classes. I think we would appreciate it much more now, or at least I think it would remind us of what our students face every day. Also, I should always remember what it is like to be a student, to be on the other side of authority.  It has always been difficult for me to see things from others perspectives, especially in the midst of personal frustration and mental anguish. When I am not succeeding at something, I want to figure out why I am not succeeding. I hardly ever look at my actions and question my own effectiveness. This kind of attitude is a killer in my line of work. Teaching is trial and error, figuring out what works and sticking to it. How can I best explain to a group of 50 students that I want them to a)get into groups of 4, b)use 1 sheet of paper for the whole group, and c) write down 4 places, one for each student, that they want to travel to? How can I explain to my students that I want them to show me what basketball is, or shopping, or art. I can usually tell when they understand what I am asking them to do, but sometimes they will act as if they understand when they do not. Or, simply and plainly, they do not understand at all. This can be maddening, but I must think of things from their point of view, just as I am equally perplexed when Thai vendors try to make conversation that I am unfamiliar with. There's a lot of nodding, and "okays" or "kraps(thai "ok") but not much comprehension. If something is clearly not working, then try something different. This maxim applies to many things(obviously or it wouldn't be a maxim). It is not always fun cutting your losses, but if you don't realize that something's not working then things will just get worse and worse until you go insane. Patience and empathy are absolutely essential if you want to have any success as a teacher.

1 Update and Some Sad News

For those of you who do not know, I have decided to extend my stay here and teach another semester. Five Months just isn't long enough, but ten months will be more than enough, I'm thinking. I will miss all of college basketball and Christmas, and some of you as well.

On a more depressing note, one of my students, Supatcha, was killed a few days ago in a fire caused by a gas leak in her home. She was 17 years old. Many teachers and students are devastated, as Supatcha was held in the highest affection of her peers and mentors. This has been yet another cultural eye opener for me, observing the grieving process of the Thai people and their obsequies. When someone dies in Thailand, the funeral lasts anywhere from 3-5 days. Her body will be cremated tonight, the fifth and final night of observance.

Supatcha was not the only one killed in the explosion. Her mother and sister were as well, and her father was away on business. Please keep this man in your thoughts and prayers.

"Thai Style"

Unsurprisingly, Thai's do some things much differently than Americans. My Thai mom, Pi Moo, calls it "Thai style", and usually giggles afterwards. It is a strange thing to experience, settling down in another country with an entirely different set of cultural norms. Some people have told me (or jokingly implied) that I have overcompensated by coming to Thailand for as long as I will be here because I have never been abroad. Well, I do have a history of living on the opposite ends of extremes: study hard and do well, or skip class and bomb; drink 15 beers, or quit altogether; sentence fragments or flawless grammar. Some friends have called me a "creature of habit"(Gray), but I like to think of this "quality of extremes" as one of my many, many charming idiosyncrasies.

Now that I have been here for ten weeks, I have been able to immerse myself in a day-to-day routine where I am truly part of a community. First of all, and I know I have mentioned this in previous entries, Thai people are very shy and apprehensive around foreigners (or at least westerners). They are almost star struck, and believe me I am no star. It is kind of cool though, feeling like a celebrity if only for a few months. I think I have the act down. I play it cool. For example, when I walk to the cafeteria for a refreshing bottle of water, I always keep my eyes straight ahead as if I did not notice the onslaught of glances and chatter coming at me from all directions. Come one guys. You know I'm drinking in all the attention. Also, while I do act as if I am unaware of the students, I still give a few "hello there"'s and "how are you"'s to the students in my direct path. I'm not that full of myself.

Another difference, at least for me personally, is the transportation. I have never had to use public transportation, so maybe this is just an adjustment to living in a big city. If I want to get anywhere that is not within walking distance, I have to at least take the bus. If I want to go to the supermarket(because you know I'm constantly cooking up a feast), which is 5 miles away from my apartment at the most, I can take a bus (8 Baht) or a songtaew (5 Baht). A songtaew(I know this is not spelled correctly) is a pick up truck with two benches facing each other that can carry up to 15 passengers, approximately. Both the buses and the songtaews can get very packed. I think this is more Asian style than strictly Thai style. I have heard that in China people hang out of windows to find space on buses. There does not seem to be too many traffic laws or much of a concern for public safety here. There are no seat belts on any public transportation vehicles, but that may be more common than I realize. It still seems dangerous to me. You can hang off the end of a songtaew, literally dangling over the edge of the truck, and no one is going to tell you to get off because the the truck has reached maximum capacity. If I want to go to Siam Center in central Bangkok, where all of the mega-malls and tourist attractions are located, my trip involves three modes of transportation: songtaew to a bus stop, bus to the monorail, and monorail to the city. It can be rather hectic, and I am only talking about a distance of 20-30 miles (30-50 kilometers). I enjoy making these trips, although it can be a hassle at times. An iPod is an essential accessory for these ventures.

The first thing any foreigner will notice when they set foot in Thailand is the sweltering heat. I am not one for the heat. I have not adapted to the warm climate (I probably have and do not realize it), and I have been here for two and half months. I need A/C, and thank God that I have it in my apartment. Thai's do not have A/C in their homes, and I hardly ever see them sweat. It could be 95 F and 100 % humidity and I would still see Thai's walking around wearing jeans and dark colored shirts, some long sleeve, without a hint of concern or discomfort. Now I know all of you "science guys" are thinking of terms like endothermic and climate adaptation or whatever it is you guys think. It's probably something very scientific. But it still amazes me because the heat can really be unbearable here, even when I'm sporting an undershirt and light khaki shorts.

That is all for now. These are the first few observations I have made about Thailand, or, I should say, the ones that have had the most immediate impact on me. There is much more to say about "Thai style". Until next time, don't forget to put on your surgical mask before you leave the house.

Sawasdee krap,
Mr. Carson

Assimilating: A Brief Summary

Thailand. Old Siam. What a place. The first two to three weeks here passed rather sluggishly. That's not to say that there was nothing going on. If anything, I was too busy when I first arrived, with orientation and and logistical matters left and right. The adjustment period was a bit trying, but now that I am settled things are going great. Time is flying by, as I knew it would. I think that I am really lucky to be teaching at Suksanareewittaya. Not only are the students friendly and eager to learn(for the most part), but the faculty, particularly the teachers in my department, have been unbelievably generous and accommodating. My coordinator, Pi Moo, has been my Thai mother(self-proclaimed). She has helped me figure out not only how to navigate in this massive metropolis, but also how to do so most efficiently. She showed all of us(non-Thai English teachers) around the village, pointing out the various restaurants and shops that we would be frequenting during our stay here. She took me to get my haircut: 50 baht, ~$1.25. My bangs are a bit uneven, but you can't beat that deal. She brings us breakfast fairly often and orders Pad Thai for all on Mondays(25 baht). Pad Thai is a popular Thai dish both locally and internationally, consisting of stir fried noodles, egg, chicken, and/or shrimp(and tofu I think) I recommend that everyone try it. The teachers also bring us sticky rice on occasion. Sticky rice is made by surrounding some filling(there are many) with rice and boiling into one compact piece. The finished product is then wrapped in a bamboo leaf and ready to go. Sticky rice is an Asian delicacy. I had never heard of  either of these foods, and I continue to learn new things everyday.  This is one of the reasons that I feel it is important to get to know as many Thai people as you can, or at least the ones who you are in daily contact with. It is much more fun to put yourself in a situation where you know nothing then to be in a situation where you cannot learn anything(i.e. touristy beach outings, etc.) It is fun to get away and enjoy a good beach weekend with some pals, which I have done only once thus far. And it was great, although I must say that the western presence was rather annoying to me. I cannot stand the backpacking culture in Thailand. These are hippies(I guess?) who really do nothing at all except clutter the scenery. How they are able to afford to stay is a mystery to me. Thailand is a great place to take a family vacation, so I not impugning these individuals. It just annoys me when I see tourists who have no respect for Thailand and her people, an ignorance that cannot be tolerated of visitors. The Thais are so generous. Why would you want to disrespect or take advantage of them? Whatever, I'll stop. (Sidebar:This is a sort of therapeutic arena for me, and you too if you feel like commenting. You can comment about anything. An incident at the supermarket? A run in with an old foe? This can be a forum where anything is vented, so feel free). 

I look forward to exploring some of the cultural landmarks of Thailand. Ayuthaya, the old capital that was burned to the ground by the Burmese, is next on my list.

I will be posting again soon. 

Sawasdee 

Pedagogue

I have now been in Thailand for nearly a month. I feel like I have adjusted to the the Thai way of life at least enough to be comfortable, and when I say comfortable I mean capable of functioning on a day to day basis with some street knowledge and reasonable expectations of how things work here. I did not leave my block for the first week in my new apartment. I was intimidated by the public transportation system, which is vast and intricate. I found one dish that I like to eat, Khao Mon Gai Pa Som (a delicious mix of deep fried chicken and boiled chicken cut over a bed of rice,served with some great sauces) and ate it every day for over a week. I did not travel anywhere the weekend after Chiang Mai. Instead, I slept for almost 24 hours over the weekend(2 weekends ago, I was exhausted). For the first week plus  I stayed in and watched Mad Men, checked out the Bonus Features of Grandma's Boy and There's Something About Mary(2 commentaries per flick, score), and read most of Jack Kerouac's On The Road, hoping it would inspire intrepidness. Instead, I spent my first week in Bangbon focused on the task for which I am here in the first place: teaching English to non-English speaking Thai students.

Stepping into the first class of my teaching career, I was apprehensive and unsure of why somebody wanted me to pay me to stand in front of a bunch of 16 year olds and tell them that "scene" and "seen" are pronounced the same way, or that "celebrity" and "celebration" have very different meanings, or that "rice" is pronounced RICE not LICE, etc. However, fifteen minutes into my first class, as my students frantically passed around a pen while singing "Happy Birthday", waiting for me to yell "STOP!!" so that the student holding the pen could stand and introduce themselves in English, I realized that teaching was going to be something that is thrilling. 

I write this post at the beginning of my 3rd week of school. I love it, although it is extremely demanding on all levels. It is physically and mentally exhausting. As a teacher, you have to keep your energy up at all times, even at the end of the week as you are approaching your eighteenth, nineteenth, and twentieth classes of the week. If you come into class without the fire to excite fifty 13-17 year olds, you are sunk. Solution? Nescafe canned coffee.

I really like my students, although there are a few sections that struggle and behave badly. Those classes are frustrating, but I get through it and hopefully reach a a decent number of students in those poor performance sections.

I have already talked to the basketball coach. I will begin helping them out this week. They will know how to take a charge and play solid D by the time I leave(if they don't want the wrath of Carson thrust violently upon them, daily). I have already balled with the seniors a few times. A few of them have some game, but sadly for them they cannot compete with my superior stature and finesse on the courts de roundball. To their credit, they are really great passers and work well as a team. I am thinking this is a direct influence of soccer, which is very popular here. 

It is really something walking around campus. The students genuinely respect teachers here, much more than in the U.S. It felt strange at first, but now I think I am getting the hang of it.

I took a trip to the city this past weekend to meet some friends and tried out the public transportation. It was a great adventure for me. I left late on Friday, and it was pouring down rain. I took an hour-long bus ride to a sky-train station, and then I took the sky train to Siam Station(or somewhere nearby) in Bangkok. It is not an impressive journey, but it was my first solo escapade on the road since I have been here. It felt like an incredible act of valor.

Until next time, be true to your school.

Sawasdee Krap, 

Carson

Chiang Mai

5/13

Hopped on a plane today to Chiang Mai in the north with my buddy Ike. Only cost 1,500 Baht, although we did have to wait at the airport for over 4 hours. The flight was only 45 minutes, and we picked up by Ike's friend, Pi Arm. Ike's mother owns an apartment building, and I will be staying in one of the units free of charge for the 3 or 4 days that we are here. Pretty generous if you ask me, especially considering the fact that these apartments go for roughly 1,000 Baht ($33) a night. That's a decent chunk of change here. This is one of the things I have noticed the most, having been here only a weeok or so: the generosity of the Thai people. They ask so little and give so much. They always help me when I'm lost. One night a group of us arrived at a "night bazaar" to meet some friends for dinner. We had no clue where the restaurant was. It was a pretty big area. As soon as we arrived, a "tuk tuk"(Thai mini-taxi), solicited us for a fare. This is a common annoyance in Thailand, especially for farangs. After turning him down, I asked him for directions to the restaurant, and he steered me in the right direction(no pun intended, hehe). Although he was unable to communicate the precise location of the restaurant, he did help us despite our refusal of his business. Such is the way of the Thai people.

Anyhow, we arrived at the apartment complex around 8. Ike's mother is a very sweet lady, so is his friend Pi Arm. Neither one of them, however, speak much English(Ike's mother has not uttered one word of English that I am aware of). Ike is fluent in Thai and English. He grew up in Bangkok and left for Canada to live with his father when he was fifteen years old. He has lived in British Columbia for the past 12 years. He is a sharp guy, having already acquired a PhD in Behavioral Science at the age of 27. I am lucky to be living in such near proximity to him(we will be teaching at the same school, if I haven't mentioned that already). He, like all the other Thai's I've encountered, has a very generous spirit.

We ate fish, rice, squid, shrimp prongs, fresh veggies, soup, and jack fruit for dinner. Even the fish we ate was pulled out of a pond located on the property. Big daddies too, although I'm not sure what kind. They conversed for hours in Thai(Ike, his mom, and Ike's friend Pi Arm) witrha few snid bits of translation when they had questions about me. Mostly, I sat at the table with with an attentive smile on my face while they caught up and told stories. It was very cool.

5/14

Ike phoned me in the morning. Today, Ike had some business to take care of, the nature of which I am thoroughly unaware. Ike and Pi Arm picked me up around 10:30 and we headed to a mega mall in the center of Chiang Mai. I'm sure there's another one, but this mall seemed to have everything anyone could ever need. We ate lunch and then Ike and Pi Arm left to take care of their errands. The plan was, in my mind, for me to hang out and do some shopping for a few hours. Also, quick sidebar, they helped me bargain the price of a massage,which I was excited about.I had never had one, but now I don't see what the big deal is. If anything, the massage was uncomfortable, unless you like someone's knees grinding on your vertebrae. I'm way too ticklish for a massage. I have to admit that there was some uncontrollable giggling involved, and I think it threw the masseuse off her game. I was quite happy when it ended, but not too happy. Anyways, they left, I got my massage, and shopped for a couple of hours. Still no word from my buddy Ike. I explored every inch of the mall, which has five expansive floors. I wandered around scoping out the stores and all the people, most of whose faces displayed curious expressions. I loved it. Finally, Ike, his friend, and his mother met me for dinner in the mall(7 hours later) at a quaint little Japanese eatery. Descliscious. Afterwards, we shopped around a bit(my idea..) and then they dropped me off at the apartment. It was 9:30, so I decided I would read a bit. It had just rained, so there were a bunch of flies swarming around any lit area. We are talking hundreds per lamp post. the really dumb kind too, the kind that fly obnoxiously with no fluidity whatsoever. They would fly into volcanic lava if it was bright enough. Anyways, these little bastard insects kept getting into my room by squeezing in under the door where there was just enough of a gap to slip on in. There is one thing I have to admit I respect about these things: their resilience. I stuffed the crack of the door with all kinds of blockage, and they kept finding an opening. I ended up reading under the light of the television.

5/15

Ike called me in the morning to tell me that his mother and I would be meeting him at a hotel for lunch. His mother drove me, and we did not speak except to say "sawasdee krap" and "sabai di mai krap", hello and how are you. We met Ike and several friends of his who I had not met: Pi Nook and Pi Matt(Pi goes before anyone's name who is older than you). They were very nice. Pi Nook is 27 and Pi Matt is in her thirties. Thai people look, on average, 3-4 years younger than they are. Neither one of them speak any English(maybe a couple words. they speak as much English as I speak Thai). After lunch, Ike had some more business to take care of in the city, so I went wit Pi Nook and Pi Matt to Pi Nook's village in the country. Her parents were preparing vegetables and spices for dinner. That's the thing with Thai meals. It takes a long time to prepare all of the ingredients(most of the vegetables are picked fresh out of a garden the day of the meal), but once all the items have been gathered they are simply thrown into a pot and cooked rather quickly. Pi Nook's father( I assume it was her father. No ingles) was cooking coconut treats that were very tasty. I'm not sure what they're called, but I liked them very much.

That night we went "clubbing". It was quite an experience. I was the only foreigner among hundreds of Thai twnetysomethings. The first time I had to use the bathroom(the first of many. i was pounding red bull), 4 bathroom attendants swarmed me. the first guy put a warm cloth around my neck as I was "doing my business" at the urinal. i told him to stop, but he didn't. I was very uncomfortable. When I was done, he flushed the toiler for me. Then another guy cracked my neck and popped my back. What? I guess some Thai's don't believe in the concept of boundaries, or at least a healthy buffer zone. They were looking for a hand out of course, and I'm a sucker so I tipped all 4 of them. That's fine, I guess.

The next day we ate lunch in the mountains and did some sight seeing. Pretty awesome. I was kind of exhausted though. Too much Bull I suppose. We took it easy that night.

I took an early plane to bangkok the next day. Chiang Mai was great, but I was glad to be back. School starts next week.

(Sorry for the lengthy post, but I had a lot of time on my hands.)

First Impressions and Orientation

I arrived in thailand around midnight, Tuesday morning. Traveling was really not a hassle at all, or at least it went as smoothly as possible. Every flight departed and arrived on schedule. Going through immigration was much easier than I anticipated, and customs just waved me right through. My bags were conveyed to me within ten minutes of my arrival. All bags accounted for. All items in tact. I met up with another participant in Tokyo, and we shared a taxi to the Pinnacle Hotel in Bangkok. Having been prepared for an onslaught of "private" taxis at the airport, we politely declined their invitations for a discounted rate to the hotel. Since orientation did not officially start until Wednesday, we put ourselves up an extra night in the hotel for a modest price.

When I first stepped out into the Bangkok evening (early morning), I was met with a fistful of shocking humidity (this coming from someone who has lived in Memphis, TN most of his life). What I noticed next was the heavy concentration ofpollutants in the sticky air, an addition that made the rare Bangkok breeze that much more palpable.

When we arrived at the hotel, we checked in and the bell boy delivered our bags to our rooms. I tipped him 50 Baht($1.75), and he smiled at me every time time he saw me for the rest of the night. Not just a reserved, gratuitous smile. This man was peaking his head up at me from the ground level while I smoked on the balcony above him. He was really straining his neck. I was creeped out, indeed. I knew coming in that the Thai people were a smiley bunch, but actually experiencing this seemingly unwarranted display of joy and appreciation was rather baffling. This was the beginning of my interaction with an entirely different culture than my own.

I had my first experience of the culture my first morning in Bangkok: breakfast at the hotel. They were serving boiled rice, pork, and some western breakfast dishes as well. I tried the boiled rice and some random thai meat dishes, but I ended up going for the more traditional American dishes such as toast, french toast, eggs, and bacon(pweef?). The fruit here is amazing, especially the pineapple. I have had pineapple at least twice a day since I've been here. So fresh, so sweet. The breakfast at the hotel hardly represented a typical Thai meal, and I have to admit that my cowardice got the best of me my first night in Thailand: I ordered a club sandwich and french fries through room service. I was fatigued and intimidated by the stream of food vendors and the general hustle and bustle of the highly active city. Also, the food stnads were located 5 feet from the busiest street I have ever seen. The fumes were not too appetizing. I do have to admit that i was a lame westerner my first day in Thailand.

Orientation was a great experience. There were eighteen of us total(I think? I'm sure someone will correct me). Most of the group was from the U.S., although we did have 3 Canadiens and 1 Aussie. No one had ever met, except for an engaged couple. The couple had originally planned to teach in China but were denied entry unexpectedly at the last minute. All of the particpants were women except three of us. This imbalance was extremely curious to me. Surely women are not more adventurous than men.

Orientation week was very busy. We spent approximately 5 hours a day in the classroom completing a teacher's training workshop( by the way none of us have ever taught before). We learned a bit about Thai history in the classroom and also by going to the Grand Palace and taking a tour of the complex that houses Thai royalty(historically). We learned some basics about Thai food and the Thai language, two things very foreign to me. It was a fun week, and I think I will miss having native English speakers in my life for the next 5 months.

When orientation ended my buddy Ike and I were picked up from the hotel by our school coordinator and driven to our apartment in Bang Bon, Bangkok. It is a minimal setup, but that is okay. I have a/c and a fridge, so I will not complain. We are headed Chiang Mai for 4 days because we don't start teaching until tomorrow(the 18th, this is kind of a delayed post).

It feels like I have been here for about a month. There's so much going on. Until my next post, which should be tomorrow, take care.

Sawasdee Krap, amigos.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

I wake up at 6:30. 4 hours of sleep. Of course. I have 27 hours of traveling ahead of me and still I choose to stay out until 2 playing pool. But that's okay. I'll sleep on the plane, right? Unless some Japanese guy decides that he cares not that the person sitting behind him may want some room to work with too. We all need to be comfortable on this thing. This is a shared experience. Don't you care? 13 hours! Wait a minute. This is not march madness or the playoffs, or Michael Phelps or Lebron. There is no camaraderie. I am the outcast now. That is fine. I have always wanted to be the foreigner. I have just flown over Canada and am now crossing over the Pacific on my way to Tokyo. I have to fill out a form for the Japanese government that says that I don't have the swine flu. They haven't gotten it yet, and I don't want t be the one to pass this mutated terror germ to the pacific rim. I guess I have been able to sleep some, despite my new favorite person in the world, whose gyrations are killing me. An hour and a half here and there. That is something I can actually do pretty well. My scrambling sleep  ability is unmatched. And I am very low maintenance. There's and empty seat between me and the Japanese young man sitting in the aisle seat. He seems nice, although he hasn't said a word. I wish I had some more leg room though. That's okay. I'll use the blanket they gave me to keep my knees from getting carpet burn from rubbing an turning against the tilted seat that lies pretty much in my lap. 

I have not even mentioned the first flight, the 2 hour leg from Memphis to Tokyo. I made a friend on this plane, a young lady from Canada who was very nice. She was on her way home from Orlando. I told her to come to Bangkok, but she wouldn't listen. 

As I type It is 12:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 1:15 P.M. in Tokyo(Monday), and 11:15 A.M. in Bangkok(Monday). I am losing half a day of my life, but it's worth the sacrifice. As long as they don't keep playing episodes of the New Adventures of Old Christine, I think I will make it.

4 more hours to go on this flight, and then 7 more to Bangkok. Plus 2 Layover. 13 Hours until I arrive. I may or may not update this en route posting. If not, then I will get with you once I reach the Land of Smiles.

Pre-departure thoughts

As many of you know, I am traveling across the world to the beguiling nation of Thailand. Technically, this place is a kingdom, a distinctive title that carries with it the lore and aura of a long standing civilization of people whose culture has endured the test of time. While Thailand itself is a relatively young state, the cultural history of its people reflects a society built upon Buddhist traditions and principles.

Honestly, I have no idea what to expect. I have spent the last 4 months filling out applications(passport, visa), completing check lists, booking flights, and other tedious tasks that have kept me distracted from the end that is now nearly upon me. I have two suitcases filled with clothes and a toothbrush. I will be taking a lap top, some reading material, and an ipod with me on the 23 hour flight, a flight that will remove me from anything and everything familiar. For the first time in my life, I will be relying on public transportation to get me where I need to go. And I do not speak Thai.

I am embarking on this chapter in my life with nothing but the spirit of adventure I have only read about in books. In no way do I feel particularly equipped or prepared for the journey ahead, but it is the absence of expectation that intrigues me the most. 

I will try my best to keep this blog updated on a regular basis. Until then, be safe and stay true.

Peace be with you all my little miscreants. I will miss you indeed.